ST.PAUL
REFORMED PROTESTANT CHURCH
A HUNDRED YEARS OF HISTORY
"It is undeniable that this place surrounded by the waters of the Ill and the Aar is the most prestigious that the urban plan of the new city of Strasbourg can offer. The building, visible from all sides, is not only the focal point of its immediate environment but also the link between the old town and the new."
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Article from the Deutsche Bauzeitung dated January 8, 1898.
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THE CONTEXTE OF ITS CONSTRUCTION
In the European context of the 19th century, marked by nationalist aspirations towards unification, Prussia succeeded in uniting the North German states and emerged victorious from conflicts with Austria and then France.
The Second German Empire was proclaimed in Versailles on January 18, 1871, after which France lost Alsace (except for Belfort), Moselle, and parts of Meurthe and Vosges to the new Prussian Empire. These territories formed the Reichsland Elsass-Lothringen, with Strasbourg as its capital.
Deeply affected by the war and with the goal of showcasing the empire, Strasbourg needed to be rebuilt, enlarged, and modernized. This led to the birth of the Neustadt project (new city), within which the history of the Saint-Paul church unfolds.
Due to Strasbourg's strategic military position, an important garrison of around 7,500 men in 1871, and up to 15,000 in 1910, was necessary. The Protestant troops had established their quarters at the Saint-Thomas Church and the Protestant church of Saint-Pierre-le-Vieux, but these places had become too cramped. The Ministry of War then decided to build two garrison churches, one Protestant and one Catholic.
The first, Evangelische Garnisonkirche (Protestant garrison church), was consecrated on May 9, 1897.
The second, Katholische Garnison-Kirche (Catholic garrison church), was consecrated on May 28, 1899.
Both would be renamed in 1921; the first became l'église réformée Saint-Paul, and the second became the Catholic Church of Saint-Maurice.
The chosen location for the Lutheran garrison church is quite remarkable. Situated at the intersection of the waters of the Ill and the Aar, it offered a clear view and a vanishing perspective on the canal from the old town, as well as a joint perspective with the spire of Notre-Dame Cathedral from Place Brant, in the heart of the new German quarters. Moreover, the building stood between the University Palace and the Emperor's Palace, now the Rhine Palace; symbolically located between the place of knowledge and that of power.
THE FRENCH-SPEAKING REFORMED PARISH
Edmond Fischer said about St-Paul:
"While since time immemorial, the smallest church represents the culmination of long community efforts, here, on the contrary, the building preceded the parish; the Saint-Paul parish is the daughter of the stone."
The free imperial city of Strasbourg embraced the Protestant Reformation as early as 1524. Due to its geopolitical position, it became a haven of peace for many persecuted French-speaking Protestants, who arrived in successive waves. Confronted with an ecclesiastical landscape where the city's seven Lutheran parishes were exclusively German-speaking, these exiles found themselves without an appointed preacher or dedicated place of worship.
Eventually, Martin Bucer appealed to his friend John Calvin to take charge of this community devoid of a spiritual shepherd. The reformer stayed only a few years in Strasbourg, but they were arguably the most impactful years of his life. He later transferred the Strasbourg model to Geneva.
Decades later, in 1788, the Reformed believers of Alsace, descendants of this initial Huguenot exile community, obtained permission to construct a temple. This permission came with certain conditions, including that the building does not resemble a church, does not have a bell, and be set back from the public road. L'église réformée du bouclier (litt: The Reformed Church of the Shield) was erected on the same street where the famous reformer once lived, Rue du Bouclier (litt: street of the shield).
Following the Treaty of Versailles in 1919, the French government sought to reduce Germanic influence in the region and symbolically restore Strasbourg as a French city. Consequently, numerous 'insiders' educators were dispatched to 'Frenchify' the University. The two concordat churches, the Lutheran Church, predominantly German-speaking, and the Reformed Church, French-speaking, both desired to reclaim the former garrison church. Politics favored the Francophone side, leading to the creation of a new Reformed community alongside the Shield parish. It was this community that renamed the building. To integrate into the Strasbourg religious landscape, where almost all churches bear the prefix 'Saint,' while remaining faithful to the Protestant faith that does not admit the veneration of saints, the name of the biblical apostle was chosen. The parish 'Saint-Paul' was officially established on July 2, 1921.
This change of confessional identity was quickly followed by some changes in decoration. To better represent Reformed church's sobriety, the large altar in the choir (see picture) was given to the Lutheran parish of Sarreguemines in favor of the wooden cross and table now present. Likewise, various frescoes and motifs on the walls and arches were covered with paint. For more political reasons, Bible verses painted in the German language under the five main stained glass were swiftly covered. Lastly, the windows depicting Germanic coats of arms, that once ran all along the galleries were exchanged for plain glass. Today, only seven blazons remain, under the East rose window.
The history of Alsace is marked by four changes of nationality in the span of seven decades. Initially French, it became German following the Franco-Prussian War, then regained its French status after World War I, only to be annexed by Germany again during World War II. Finally, it returned under French rule at the end of the latter. Each of these upheavals led to actions aimed at erasing the past identity. The stones of St. Paul bear witness to these transformations.
Des décennies plus tard, en 1788, les réformés d'Alsace, héritiers de cette première communauté d'exilés huguenots, obtinrent l'autorisation de construire un temple. Cette autorisation était assortie de certaines conditions, notamment que le bâtiment ne ressemble pas à une église, qu'il ne comporte pas de cloche et qu'il soit édifié en retrait de la voie publique. L'église réformée du Bouclier fut érigée dans la même rue où vivait autrefois le réformateur, la rue du Bouclier.
Après le traité de Versailles en 1919, le gouvernement français s'efforça de réduire l'influence germanique dans la région et de rétablir symboliquement Strasbourg en tant que ville française. Ainsi, de nombreux enseignants « de l'intérieur » furent dépêchés pour "franciser" l'Université. Les deux Églises concordataires, l'Église luthérienne, prédominante germanophone, et l'Église réformée, francophone, désiraient toutes deux récupérer l'ancienne église de garnison. La politique favorisa le côté francophone, ce qui conduisit à la création d'une nouvelle communauté réformée aux côtés de la paroisse du Bouclier. C'est celle-ci qui rebaptisa l'édifice. Pour s'intégrer dans le paysage religieux strasbourgeois, où presque toutes les églises portent le préfixe "Saint", tout en restant fidèle à la foi protestante qui n'admet pas le culte des saints, le nom de l'apôtre biblique fut choisi. La paroisse « Saint-Paul » est officiellement établie le 2 juillet 1921.
Ce changement d'identité est rapidement suivi par un changement de décoration. Pour mieux représenté la sobriété réformée, le grand autel du chœur est cédé à la paroisse luthérienne de Sarreguemines au profit de la croix et de la table en bois qui s'y trouvent aujourd'hui. De même, diverses fresques et motifs sur les murs et les arches sont dissimuler sous une couche de peinture. Pour des raisons plus politiques, les versets bibliques peints en allemand sous les vitraux sont rapidement recouvert. Enfin, les fenêtres représentant les armoiries germaniques qui courraient tout le long des tribunes sont échangées contre des vitres vierges. Aujourd'hui il n'en reste que sept blasons, sous la rosace Est
L'histoire de l'Alsace est marquée par quatre changements de nationalité en l'espace de sept décennies. Tout d'abord française, elle devint allemande à la suite de la guerre franco-prussienne, puis retrouva sa position française après la Première Guerre mondiale, pour être à nouveau annexée par l'Allemagne lors de la Seconde Guerre mondiale. Finalement, elle revint sous le giron français à la fin de cette dernière. Chacun de ces bouleversements a entraîné des actions visant à effacer l'identité passée. Les pierres de St-Paul en sont un témoignage.
RESTORATIONS
The history of the Saint-Paul church is marked by a series of essential restorations, necessitated by the ravages of climatic events and human conflicts. The adjoining chapel and the original choir stained glass windows were unfortunately destroyed during an Allied bombing in 1944, a poignant reminder of the horrors of war. In 1958, the West rose window suffered considerable damage due to a historic hailstorm, revealing the vulnerability of this architectural treasure to the whims of weather.
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The chapel was replaced by the current foyer, and the choir stained glass windows were completely redesigned in 1954 to bring in a different light, while the aforementioned West rose window was reimagined with a contemporary design in the 1960s. On the outside, the stone is fragile; indeed, the Vosges sandstone presents a common problem in many Alsatian buildings: that of disintegration. The directives of the time insisted on the use of this material, noble, local, and easy to work with. However, being made of aggregated sand, it is porous and deteriorates rapidly. Thus, the facade also underwent its share of restorations, notably between 2005 and 2015.
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Among the fragile elements of the church, the Walcker organ holds a particular place. Indeed, organs are delicate instruments that require a controlled environment in terms of temperature and humidity to maintain their optimal condition. The proximity of the organ to the South rose window leads to fluctuations in these conditions, which could affect the stability of this exceptional instrument, the largest symphonic organ in Alsace. The heatwave of 2023 had indeed damaged the instrument, and several concerts had to be canceled. This situation highlights the imperative to preserve this musical and architectural masterpiece.
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The protection and enhancement of the Saint-Paul church through restoration are necessary. Indeed, the church is an exceptional testimony to the Neustadt heritage. In recognition of this, it was classified as a historical monument in 1998, ensuring its preservation for future generations. However, the current restoration work is crucial. The roof shows signs of water infiltration, while some stained glass windows require urgent attention. To strengthen the roof, manage cracks, and replace damaged windows, we need several million euros. Part of these costs will be covered by various organizations; however, a significant portion is the responsibility of the parish. That's why we appeal to your generosity and support to safeguard this precious heritage, so that the Saint-Paul church continues to illuminate our history and spirituality. Your donations will contribute to preserve this architectural wonder for generations to come.
SAINT-PAUL NOWADAYS
Today, Saint-Paul Church holds a special place as a university parish at the heart of Strasbourg. Situated close to the historic campus, it has maintained strong ties with the Protestant theology faculty for a long time. Since 2017, it proudly carries the title of a university parish, offering students a warm space to gather and recharge. Every Wednesday at noon, a friendly meal brings together students, parishioners, and professors, while short preaching sessions help in honing both oratorical and spiritual skills. Students can also enjoy a peaceful place to study, sipping freshly brewed coffee on-site.
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The Saint-Paul parish also organizes occasional events that strengthen community bonds, such as hikes after the service or weekends for students and families outside the city. To the delight of children, an Easter egg hunt is organized within the church during Easter. Parents and couples also have their gatherings during the monthly meetings of the Agape group, discussing love, faith, and sharing everyday anecdotes over a candlelit meal.
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The church council also plans to open a café within one of the church's halls. The space will be separated by a glass partition so that locals and tourists can enjoy the atmosphere while respecting its spiritual dimension. Due to its proximity to the university, it will likely attract faculty members, professors and students from Strasbourg. The initiative aims to provide a meeting place not only for human interaction but also, potentially, for encountering God—a starting point for those interested in matters of faith.
As a cultural place, the church opens its doors to numerous musical and artistic events. In 2022, it hosted performances by singers such as Hugues Aufray and Patrick Fiori, with The Stentors scheduled to perform in December 2023. Alongside organ recitals regularly presented by the Musique & Orgues association, the church hosts annual concerts by the Strasbourg University Orchestra. Additionally, the Musica festival takes over its walls every September, adding a vibrant touch to the city's cultural life.
Hence, the Saint-Paul church, serving as a university parish and cultural center, plays an essential role in the lives of students, spiritual development, and the cultural richness of the Strasbourg community. It continues to shine as a place of gathering, sharing, and inspiration for all who enter its doors.